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banime40 Schematic SVG view

Imported from GitHub: chrischrislolo/banime40 · commit f447898 · license CC-BY-SA-4.0

Description

A 4x10 hotswap ortholinear keyboard that supports multiple configurations.

README

PCB

This section contains information about making your own assembled PCB

Acknowledgements

Thank you to PCBWay for sponsoring research and development for the banime40. Because of them, I can further iterate on this board, as well as do some experimentation with SLA printed cases. I found their service to be fast and easy to use, so I do endorse using them for your PCB printing needs.

Gerbers

A zipped file containing the Gerbers you need should be already provided for certain PCB print services. You may need to re-generate the Gerbers if you go with a different PCB service.

When ordering from PCBWay or the like, the standard print settings should be fine, though I do recommend the Lead free HASL surface finish, mostly out of concern for long term health. If you think having a leaded surface is fine, feel free to go with that option.

Follow this guide to learn more about uploading Gerbers to services like PCBWay: https://www.pcbway.com/helpcenter/Findproducts/How_do_I_place_an_order_.html

Bill of Materials

Here is the list of materials you will need:

  • 1 pro-micro. I highly recommend using the USB-C pro-micros, as I build the PCB with the size of that microcontroller in mind. Other pro-micro compatible boards should also be fine.
  • Appropriate header
  • 43x Kailh hotswap sockets
  • 40x Diodes
    • PCB supports either through-hole or SMD
    • I found that through-hole is more commonly found, but leave "pokey" bits on the pcb, while SMD diodes are a tad bit harder to get, while leading to a cleaner PCB
    • If going down the SMD route, I personally prefer the black diodes over the glass ones
  • [Optional] 1x reset button
    • A 3x4mm SMD buttom should do it (haven't confirmed)
    • I recommend just shorting the micro-controller pins or using bootmagic instead to reset the board though.
    • Note that the cases currently do not have holes to support this button
    • Note that I plan to swap out this button with a more standard size

Assembly

Once you have all the parts, you will want to do the following steps. Following similar build guides, like the CRKBD or REVIUNG41 build guides should give you a rough idea of the build, if this is your first time assembling a board.

  • Solder on the diodes first, as they are the smallest parts.
    • Remember that diode polarity does matter, so refer to diode reference guides if needed.
    • Note that all diodes point the same way vertically and horizontally
  • Solder on the hot swap sockets
    • Everyone has their own grove, but what I like doing is placing a very small amount of solder onto one pad, placing the socket onto the board, and then using the soldering iron to re-heat the solder pillow while gently pressing down on the socket with tweezers.
  • Flash the firmware onto the pro-micro
    • There is a hex file available for you to flash in the firmware folder of this repo.
    • You should confirm that flashing is successful before doing any kind of solder work with your microcontroller, to at least have some confidence that the board works.
    • QMK PR in progress
  • Solder on the pro-micro
    • Ensure that the components under the pro-micro footprint have a solid solder connection before soldering the header pins.
    • The pro-micro must be on the same side as the other components, with the pro-micro facing up.
    • Low profile female sockets should work, though I do think it might be cutting it close hight wise.