sdbox-v2

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jbilander/sdbox-v2

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Imported from GitHub: jbilander/SDBox-v2 · commit c1163bc · license GPL-3.0

Description

SDBox-v2 for Amiga, compatible with the new updated card-detect firmware

README

SDBox v2


SDBox v2 for Amiga, hardware compatible with the new updated card-detect (insert/eject interrupt) firmware written by N.Ekström available here: https://github.com/niklasekstrom/amiga-par-to-spi-adapter

This version is superseded by the new SDBox-v3 here: https://github.com/jbilander/SDBox-v3



Here is a short video clip showing the new card detect feature: https://drive.google.com/file/d/11R0idJcfvWwsGSfzbPFG1xpoupvCA6SC/view?usp=sharing


Howto build the SDBox Rev2...


Start by soldering the U2 and U3 ICs, then the passives, the card holder, micro-usb jack, DB25M and so on, nothing complicated, but do skip the 6-pin ICSP-header on the Nano if you're going to put this in a 3D-printed case...



At this stage, before you solder the Nano down to the board, you should verify that +5V via the Micro-USB jack is ok...



Now the Nano, validate +5V and +3.3V is ok on the Nano:

Powering the MicroSD card directly from the 3.3V-pin of the Arduino, are you nuts?

Well, maybe, but typical SD card current consumption is ~30mA in SPI mode. The Arduino Nano taps 3.3V from the internal LDO 3V3OUT supply of the FT232RL USB-chip, or in case of the clones the CH340 USB-chip.

FT232RL: Up to 50mA can be drawn from this pin to power external logic if required.
CH340G: Maximum output current is 30mA, and that voltage stays rather stable up to about 30mA.


Time to build and flash the firmware:



And we need to 3D-print a case for it before we put the LEDs in, don't we?...

(STL-files available in the DSM folder)



Final result:


Comparison with v1, look at the difference in size:


Now time to build the new spisd.device driver, add +kick13 to the build.bat if default is set to build for AmigaOS 2.0...

(VBCC for Windows I downloaded from here (Thanks: Leffmann for the installer), https://eab.abime.net/showthread.php?t=83113 )



BOM Rev. 2A

PositionName/ValuePackageNotes
U1Arduino Nano V3
U274LVC3G17TSSOP-8_3x3mm_P0.65mmTriple non-inverting Schmitt trigger with 5V tolerant input 74LVC3G17
U374AHCT1G175-TSSOP, SC-70-5, SOT-353 (2.0 mm × 1.25mm)Single non-inverting Schmitt trigger 74AHCT1G17GWH
J1D-Sub DB25MDB25 Male connector with solder lugsDB25 for Amiga parallel port
J2Micro USB connectorUSB Micro B SMTFor +5V Power, (style 1) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32991869539.html
J3Micro SD Card Holder9-pin Micro SD card slot connectorhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/32802051702.html
D1 (Optional)LED 3mmPinHeader_1x02_P2.54mm_Vertical, pin pitch 2.54 mmSD Activity LED indicator, Diffused Orange / Amber, 1.8V-2.3V, 20-30 mA, 605-610nm
D2 (Optional)LED 3mmPinHeader_1x02_P2.54mm_Vertical, pin pitch 2.54 mmPower LED indicator, Green Diffused T-1, 25 mcd, 565 nm, 2.2 V, 25 mA
R1 (Optional)150 Ohm Resistor1206 SMD, 200 mW(Mandatory if D1 populated) Series resistor for D1 LED, adjust R-value to your type of LED and preferred brightness
R2 (Optional)150 Ohm Resistor1206 SMD, 200 mW(Mandatory if D2 populated) Series resistor for D2 LED, adjust R-value to your type of LED and preferred brightness
R310k Ohm Resistor1206 SMDPull-up (to VCC) resistor for /SS
R4 (Optional)10k Ohm Resistor1206 SMDPull-up (to VCC) resistor for MOSI
R510k Ohm Resistor1206 SMDPull-up (to 3V3) for MISO_3V3
R610k Ohm Resistor1206 SMDPull-up (to 3V3) for DAT1 pin 8 on MicroSD-holder
R710k Ohm Resistor1206 SMDPull-up (to 3V3) for DAT2 pin 1 on MicroSD-holder
JP1 (Optional)0 Ohm Resistor, or Solder Blob1206 SMDPopulate this one to reset Nano in conjunction with Ctrl-Amiga-Amiga
C1220uF CapacitorSMD-Tantalum, 4.3 x 7.3 x 2.8 mmCapacitor for VIN +5V Power via USB https://www.reichelt.com/se/en/smd-tantalum-220-f-10v-125-c-t491d-220u-10-p206492.html
C20.1uF = 100nF Capacitor0805 SMDDecoupling capacitor for U2
C30.1uF = 100nF Capacitor0805 SMDDecoupling capacitor for U3
C40.1uF = 100nF Capacitor0805 SMDDecoupling capacitor for J3

Howto get 5V from the Amigas external floppy port (250 mA max), let's make a cable...


I did't have a DB23 Male connector so I used a DB25 and cut it down to a 23 with a hacksaw. I cut on the left side (pin 1 and 14) so that the plug will clear the neighbouring RCA-jack when plugged into the A500 external floppy drive port.



Remove pin 1 and 14, wiggle back and forth with a plier until they exhaust and snap then pull out the remains from the other side



Cut and wirestrip the micro-usb cable. Verify polarity, normally black is GND and red is +5V but the cable mfg might have mixed up the wire colours so check with a multimeter to be certain. Pin 3-7 on the connector is GND on the Amiga, +5V is on pin 12. You could either Blob pin 3-7 together (requires quite a lot of solder) and then solder the micro-usb GND-wire to that Blob or do as I did below with 5 individual wires soldered and crimped together.



Some shrink tube on, a bit overkill maybe but hey it's a guide, no shortcuts, I even crimped AND soldered the GND-joint :)



Ready to go and it clears both the RCA-plug and the serial port connector. With this cable now plugged into the SDBox it'll be powered on as soon as the Amiga is powered on and vice versa.



Happy Hackin'

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