Yet another split keyboard with low profile Gateron switches

Important note: tested, it works Now the hard part, try getting used to it.

WARNING: There's a mistake in the RJ-9 connector routing, I didn't consider that RJ9 cables are typically crimped mirrored, so a custom cable has to be made in order to use the design.

Basically a replica of any other split keyboard project you can find on github

• Pro micro controller
• Gateron low profile KS-33 switches with hot-swap sockets
• No OLED screen, LEDs or other shiny stuff

The main difference in the layout is that the positions of the thumb-keys is moved to the center with respect to more famous keyboards like the Lily58, more like the Voyager. Vertical stagging of about 1/4 of a key size is applied in the vertical direction, between columns. The distance between switches is 19mm and not 19.05mm like many other, I don't care it's not 3/4 of an inch.

The PCB is designed using KiCad. It is the same for both right and left side, depending on where components are soldered. There's no 3D printed case or key support mask, but I'd like to implement it.

The reason for the double socket for the controller is that I was usure on which side I'd like to put the controller.

For the time being I'm not planning to implement QMK or similar things, key map is hardcoded in the code. The code is based on the Arduino library because I'm lazy. For the same reason I'm using PlatformIO.

For the used switches and controller lib/footprint, credit to foostan/kdb.

BOM

• Controllers: Any pro-micro close is fine, I used the cheapest one I found on Amazon. You can buy presoldered ones, the PCB is compatible with any orientation.
• Switches: Gatheron low profile switches, KS-33 footprint, I used those ones.
• Sockets for the switches: The ones associated to the KS-33 footprint (those).
• Diodes: BAT85 are the ones I used, but any signal diode with similar specs should be fine.
• Resistors: There's a resistor in series to the voltage sourcing pin. To prevent accidental shorts, a 1k resistor is placed in series. Those can be replaced by a jumper wire. Note I used DIN0204, a kind of small size trough hole package.
• Sockets for the controller: If you don't want to solder the controllers to the PCB, you can use any 2.54mm socket.
• RJ9 socket: It is a standard, any trough hole socket is fine.
• RJ9 Cable: WARNING as mentioned above, you need to make your own cable, as the common telephone ones has mirrored connected plugs at each end (i.e. in my design each cable must end on the same size of the plug).

Pictures of the result